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2010 Iron Fork Recap

The folks at the Nashville Scene were nice enough to send us a few tickets to this year’s Iron Fork competition down at the Country Music Hall of Fame. Being food lovers, it was impossible for us to resist the chance to try some of the best grub from around the city. We jumped at the chance and headed down there last Wednesday to see what the event was all about.

The champion's trophy

There were several hundred Nashvillians in attendance and a few dozen local eateries and food shops handing out samples of their recipes and products. If you think you can’t fill your belly with samples, you should be sure to attend Iron Fork next year and give your theory some field-testing. We never expected to be so happily heavy with food from such tiny little portions, but when the flavors on offer are so tasty it’s hard not to get seconds and thirds.

It seemed like nearly everybody had some sort of pork dish at their station – not unexpected in Nashville, and certainly not unwelcome since we’re known fans of the pig. The best was from Whole Foods, who offered up a simple dish of tender, slow-roasted pork shoulder with greens. But also more-than-satisfying was the southern egg roll from Two Twenty-Two Grill & Catering, the new in-house restaurant at the Country Music Hall of Fame, and a dish from Amerigo made up of pulled pork and pesto over a parmesan polenta.

Fantastic as most of the pork was, our palates were glad there was more on offer than just savory dishes centered around “the other white meat.” We sampled a fantastic bacon-wrapped chicken breast with pepper jack cheese from Mere Bulles, sno-cones from Fleur De Lis Flavors, and a tiramisu with candied pecans from Finezza that drove from our memories all the mediocre tiramisu we’d eaten in our lives. And The Cupcake Collection‘s sweet potato and red velvet cupcakes were a treat like no other on offer Wednesday night, with a not-too-sweet, creamy, grainless frosting that had us coming back for more.

Purple sweet potato madness!

And then there were the Stokes purple sweet potatoes that ended up serving as the secret ingredient for the competition portion of this year’s Iron Fork. Whole Foods showed off the versatility of this tuber, grown on old tobacco farming land in North Carolina, by turning it into four different products including a creamy sweet potato butter and a delicious cocktail sauce. And the five master chefs did incredible things with the Stokes purple, too – or so we’ve heard.

While the food-and-drink aspect of the event was very well organized, the competition portion was hard to follow. An old friend of ours works at Tayst so we knew who defending champion Jeremy Barlow was by sight, but otherwise we couldn’t identify the chefs from our vantage point. That made it difficult to develop any sort of rooting interest and turned us into disinterested onlookers rather than involved audience members. And while there were cameramen on the floor, just like Iron Chef or other televised cooking competitions, what they showed us on the high-def flat screens rarely matched up with the banter from Carrington Fox and the other Scene-sters on the mic up in the front of the room. Luckily, Jim Ridley has an Iron Fork recap post with the details so you can learn about the victory by Acorn‘s Chef Andy Hunter.

Team Tayst at work

We would’ve preferred to follow the competition with excitement, but the circumstances forced us to pay it little mind and focus on the food instead. But there were so many tastes, and so many friendly people offering them up, that the competition disappeared into the background and we were left to enjoy an evening of some of the best food Music City has to offer. Regardless of what you expect in the beginning, an end result like that is never a bad thing.

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King Solomon’s Gyros: Friendly, Fresh and Cheap

If you’re looking for a good meal in East Nashville but don’t have the time it takes to sit down, consider stopping by King Solomon’s Gyros at 716 Gallatin Road.

For starters, you won’t find better service anywhere in East Nashville. While Rachel and I waited behind two other cars on our last visit, the owner brought a menu out to us so we could look it over before arriving at the window to place our order. Once we got there, he was exceedingly friendly and attentive to our requests and got every detail of the order right – more than can be said for a lot of fast-food-style establishments.

The menu at King Solomon’s Gyros is diverse. There’s the standard fare that you would expect from a gyro joint, along with a few favorites like the Philly Cheesesteak and Catfish Sandwich, and a number of different salad options. There’s also a full complement of appetizers from stuffed jalapenos to fried mushrooms and hot wings, making it a low-priced option for game-day snacking. On our visit we kept it simple, opting to go with a taste of the Mediterranean and leave the American favorites for another time.

At King Solomon's Gyros, you get all three: fresh, friendly and cheap

Rachel ordered the falafel plate ($5.99) and noted that the falafel cakes were perfectly cooked with a great soft crunch. They were a touch dry on our last visit, but a little cucumber sauce is the perfect antidote to that little problem. Served on a bed of aromatic yellow rice with saffron, the falafel was accompanied by warm and tasty pita wedges. Rachel described the side salad – lettuce, cucumbers, tomato, banana peppers, and feta cheese in a vinegar dressing – as “refreshing.” The tangy peppers and potent vinegar overpowered the other flavors in the salad to a degree, especially the delicate flavor of the feta, but all the ingredients tasted fresh.

I chose the gyro combo ($5.49), my second go-round in the last two weeks with this option. At just $1.50 more than the gyro alone to get an order of fries and a drink, it’s as good a bargain as you’ll find on this side of town. The meat was tender and flavorful, juicy but not greasy, and served on a fresh roll with cucumber sauce, tomatoes, lettuce and onion. The portion size was generous without being too much to handle, though you might end up with a few leftover fries if you didn’t grow up a member of the Clean Plate Club.

I finished my meal by splitting a small vanilla milkshake with Rachel. Made with local Purity ice cream, it was a bit on the sweeter side but still made for a nice treat on a hot day. Even with the milkshake and tax included, we both ate for under $15.

Even though it’s a drive-through business, it can take a few minutes to get your food at King Solomon’s Gyros because they have a small staff and make everything to order. But with long business hours (Sun-Thurs 10am-10pm, Fri-Sat 10am-11pm), fresh food, friendly service and the affordability of a diverse menu all working in the restaurant’s favor, the wait is a small price to pay for one of the East side’s best cheap meals.

King Solomon's Gyros on Urbanspoon

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Nashville’s Eastside Brunch Guide, Volume 1

Sunshine and 80-degree temperatures, coffee and biscuits on the porch, Bradford and cherry blossoms – yes, it’s springtime again in East Nashville, which means some of us have contracted spring fever and allergy season has returned for others. Whether you’re finally peering out from your seasonal affective disorder funk or beginning the long battle with the itchy sneezes, brunch is the best medicine.

Okay, so this auspicious portmanteau can’t really cure your springtime ailments. But it can distract you for an hour or so, which may be better than anything a doctor could prescribe. Brunch is a chance to get out of the house, take in a little piece of what the world has to offer and enjoy time with friends and family. Most importantly, though, it’s an opportunity to eat delicious foods and sometimes even drink before noon.

Here are a few of the spots in East Nashville where we’ve been known to drop in for a brunchy bite.

Marché on Gallatin Road

Marché

  • Location: 1000 Main Street
  • Hours: Breakfast: T-F 8am-11am, Lunch: T-F 11am-4pm, Dinner: Sat. 5-9pm; Brunch Sat. 8am-4pm and Sun. 9am-4pm
  • Cost: $10-20 per person

Combining artisan foods with a relaxed atmosphere, Marché serves a variety of foods ranging from eggs and homemade sausage to roasted beet tartine. The staff is usually in good spirits, even on the weekends when they are busy – and they do get quite busy. Their coffee is strong (bless them), and they offer a variety of specialty beverages like blood orange mimosas and cucumber-sake Bloody Marys. Their menu changes regularly and never fails to impress.

Mitchell Deli at Riverside Village

Mitchell Deli

East Nashville’s semi-secluded delicatessen, this spot in Riverside Village is a great place for good breakfast without all the “atmosphere” which can often just mean snobbery. Mitchell’s offers a variety of delicious sandwiches as well as a breakfast bar charged by the pound. Tight quarters in the dining area are a drawback, but they do offer outdoor seating so you can enjoy a meal in the sunshine on nicer days. We first took a look at Mitchell Deli last year in A Drunkard’s Brunch.

Nashville Biscuit House on Gallatin Road

Nashville Biscuit House

Our queen of greasy spoons, Nashville Biscuit House is not the kind of place you’ll want to take potential business clients or finicky eaters. What you will get at the Biscuit House is a traditional diner experience. Their coffee is a bit on the freeze-dried side, but the warm-ups keep coming. The staff members are usually chipper and not unknown to banter with patrons. If you’re more comfortable in jeans than khakis, this might be the place for you.

Pied Piper Eatery on Riverside Drive

Pied Piper Eatery

  • Location: 1601 Riverside Drive
  • Hours: M-Th 8 a.m. – 9 p.m., F 8 a.m. – 10 p.m., Sat. 6 a.m. – 10 p.m., Sun. 6 a.m. – 9 p.m.
  • Cost: $10 per person

Serving dishes a notch above diner fare, many locals swear by the Pied Piper Eatery. While the food is good, it’s not going to wow anyone. Here you can get most of your classic breakfast foods: eggs, sausage, bacon, French toast (or “Freedom Toast,” as they call it), and a good cup of coffee all in an environment that’s a neat combination of hip and kitsch – let’s call it “hiptsch.” The staff is incredibly friendly, making it a good place to to take out-of-towners who are eager to find a roll-out-of-bed-and-get-some-pancakes joint with plenty of local charm.

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Win Two Tickets to Iron Fork 2010

It's Iron Fork time in Nashville!

For the third straight year, the Nashville Scene is putting on its own version of Iron Chef here in Music City. The Iron Fork competition, which goes down the night of April 21st at the Country Music Hall of Fame, will feature five top chefs from the Nashville area competing in culinary battle. Proceeds from the evening will benefit Second Harvest Food Bank and Manna-Food Security Partners.

This year’s participants are Chris Cunningham from Sunset GrillAndy Hunter from Acorn RestaurantHal M. Holden-Bache from Eastland CaféJason McConnell from 55 SouthSol, and Red Pony Restaurant, and defending champion Jeremy Barlow from Tayst. All five chefs will have to cook two different dishes, twice each – once for presentation, and once for the judges. They’ll also have contend with a secret ingredient, announced only 10 minutes before the competition begins, that must be worked into their recipes. Whoever wins over the panel made up of local foodies and celebrities will win and a full cookware set from Le Creuset, bragging rights for the next year and the coveted “Gold Fork” award.

We've got your Iron Fork right here.

If you’re interested in watching the battle for yourself instead of reading about it here after the fact, all the while enjoying free cocktails and samples of award-winning cuisine, you can pick up tickets for the event here. They’re $30 until April 14, after which they’ll go up to $40. For the more enterprising among you, there is an alternative: win your tickets from EastNashvilleBlog.com! We’re giving away a pair of tickets to Iron Fork, and all you have to do to win them is complete two easy steps:

1. Follow us on Twitter. If you don’t already have an account, you can sign up for one in no time flat.

2. Send us a message on Twitter telling us about your favorite food in East Nashville and why you love it. For instance, your message might read like this: “@eastnashblog My favorite East Nashville food is Mas Tacos Por Favor because I like my fish tacos on wheels.” The rules: you can only win if you’re on our Twitter follower list when the contest closes, and all entries are limited to one single tweet of 140 characters per account – so, no spilling over into multiple tweets.

Maybe it’s a particular local restaurant, maybe it’s grilling out with friends on Sundays, or maybe it’s the food from the garden in your backyard – whatever your favorite grub is on the East side, we want to know! But make sure to tell us soon – the contest closes at midnight, Saturday, April 17th, at which point we’ll poll our staff in a highly unscientific manner and give away tickets for the winner and a friend to attend Iron Fork.

So what are you waiting for? The contest starts … now!

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Hot Chicken Goes High Society With Thomas Keller


Even a top chef can appreciate hot chicken.

Writer Jennifer Justus and world-renowned chef/2010 James Beard Award nominee Thomas Keller ventured out this week to what is arguably the defining spot for hot chicken, Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, while the chef was in town for a book signing over in Green Hills.

In one sense the chef was completely out of his element: Justus notes in her piece that nine-course meals at Keller’s French Laundry restaurant in California go for more than $200 per person, while all the chicken and sides they ate at Prince’s cost just $35 total. But in another sense, Keller was completely within his element – after all, he is a chef, and true food people often appreciate the simple things the most. “I’m tempted to do this more,” Keller told Justus as they finished their meal. “It kind of captivates you, the spiciness of it.”

So, if you ever doubted how lucky you are to have hot chicken right here in your backyard, remember: at least one man held in high esteem by the food world thinks it’s something special. If you can’t find the time to make it to Prince’s or any of Nashville’s other hot chicken spots in the near future, at least make sure you get over to the Hot Chicken Festival at East Park in July.

Check out the full Thomas Keller article over at the Tennessean. And check out more from Jennifer Justus at her blog, A Nasty Bite.

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Hunan Express Not So Hunan After All

Though a preface seems counterintuitive to the nature of restaurant reviews, I feel the need to do so in the case of Hunan Express. I typically love hole-in-the-wall shops, stands and street vendors, for their mystery and excitement add to the overall gustatory experience. I get the sense that I’m not just eating to sustain myself, but that I’m also having an adventure, which improves my estimation of the food. Eating becomes as much an emotional event as much as a necessity.

It's more "Express" than "Hunan"

That said, I don’t hold short-order vendors to the same standards that I would a sit-down restaurant charging two to three times the price. With Hunan Express or any such Chinese restaurant, I don’t expect to find fancier plates the likes of Squab with Five Spheres, or dishes made with douchi (豆豉), the pungent, bitter-sweet fermented black bean typical of the intensely flavorful Hunanese tradition and for that matter, much of China.* When it comes to short-order Chinese food I’m looking for a certain level of quality for a fair price. So even though I frequent Hunan Express semi-regularly, I’m not a return customer because the food is good. When I get home from work and I want to satisfy my craving for Chinese food without cooking it myself or driving out to China Bell in Madison or The China Cottage in Rivergate (hands down the best Chinese this side of the river), I hit up Hunan Express at 920 Gallatin Ave. because they’ve got the market in East Nashville cornered.

I understand it’s just a name, but I find something a bit misleading about a restaurant called “Hunan” having a severe deficiency of Hunanese dishes on the menu. I also understand that this is not a concern many of their customers share; most Americans want a variety of Chinese dishes to choose from, and they often want the weak-sauce versions of the Chinese originals. Hunan Express does carry one dish that has become the American standard for Hunanese food, General Tso’s Chicken. While General Tso’s is not actually from the Hunan province – most sources say Chef Peng Chang-kuei invented it while in Taiwan after the Nationalists fled Mao Zedong‘s reign – it does exhibit some traditional Hunan characteristics, a combination of spicy and salty with sour in a rich sauce. Chef Peng later altered the recipe to suit American tastes by adding sugar, and it’s this version that has proved popular throughout much of the world.

The General Tso's at Hunan Express is lackluster at best

The Americanized version of General Tso’s is often criticized for being too sweet, but Hunan Express takes this syrupy overabundance to new levels. Granted, not much can be expected from an establishment that has it listed as “General Joe’s” on their menu, but I have to draw a line somewhere. Their version of the dish upsets the careful balance of flavors and blatantly disregards the other flavors entirely, culminating in a dish that is nothing more than chicken in sweet tomato sauce. It lacks dried chilies, an indispensable and relatively inexpensive ingredient in what is supposed to be a spicy dish, and rice wine vinegar, the element that provides the dish with its delicate pucker factor, is scarcely detectable if present at all. In fact, this is a trend I’ve found throughout most of Hunan Express’ offerings. The dishes which are supposed to contain shaoxing (绍兴酒), the quintessential dry cooking wine that graces many Chinese dishes, is completely absent from their dishes, leaving them quite flat.

Hunan Express is, however, not entirely devoid of positive characteristics. It is cheap, with most dishes averaging in the $5 range for a generous portion. And as I mentioned earlier, it is the only Chinese restaurant in East Nashville – so it does have that going for it. Perhaps Hunan Express has erred on the side of pandering too much to the American palate, but with Asian cuisine doing quite well in our neck of the woods at restaurants like Far East Nashville, Thai Phooket and Pad Thai Kitchen it seems that Hunan Express could only benefit from upping its game. Or perhaps the East Nashville market is ripe for another enterprise to step up to the plate. Either would be a welcome development. (more…)

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James Beard Foundation Announces 2010 Award Nominees

Top Chef's Tom Colicchio is up for a James Beard Award this year.

The James Beard Foundation, the organization that hands out awards to the best of everything American in food and drink, today announced it list of nominees for its 2010 awards. From books and broadcast media to restaurants and chefs, the list of categories is as varied as the American palate and features more than a few folks whom foodies know well. Thomas Keller, Tom Colicchio, Todd English, Mario Batali, Alton Brown, and Andrew Zimmern are just a few of the folks nominated for their contributions to American food culture. Unfortunately there aren’t any East Nashville establishments or chefs – or indeed, any from greater Nashville – on the list. That isn’t the most stunning revelation, but it’s one that’s worth thinking about.

Nashville has been building something of a reputation as an up-and-coming food city for a couple of years now, and with outsiders like Gwyneth Paltrow discovering (and loving) the options available here it seems like the word is bound to leak out eventually that this town has some serious food chops. Perhaps it’s time for someone in the Nashville foodie community to start seriously considering the idea of hosting an annual Nashville Food Awards to honor the best of Nashville gastronomy – and maybe even boost the city’s reputation in the long run.

If there were the Nashville Food Awards were handed out this summer, what categories would you want to see? Who would be the most deserving nominees? Mull that one over and let us know what you think. In the meantime, you can check out the full list of nominees for the awards that actually exist – and be forewarned, it’s a long list – at the James Beard Foundation website.

The winners of this year’s James Beard Awards will be announced on May 2.

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Gwyneth Paltrow Loves East Nashville Food

Gwyneth Paltrow digs the food here in East Nashville.

Academy Award-winning actress Gwyneth Paltrow recently spent several months living and working here in the Music City. Along the way she discovered what those of us who live here already know: East Nashville has excellent food options.

As has been noted in celeb gossip rags like People, the Hollywood star also acquired a taste for hot chicken while she was here. She made the solid choice of stopping at EastNashvilleBlog.com’s favorite from last year’s Hot Chicken Festival, Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack. Maybe the committee for this year’s festival should consider making her this year’s grand marshal for the festivities?

Among Paltrow’s favorite spots in East Nashville was the Family Wash. She describes it as “worn-in” and “comfortable,” and raves in particular about one dish: “The Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie is spectacular, made of layers of perfectly seasoned lentils, mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese.”

When it was time to get a taste of something a little more European, Paltrow and friends stepped out to Margot Cafe and Bar in Five Points for its menu of food made from local and seasonal ingredients. Another favorite was Margot’s sister business, Marché Artisan Foods. In the mornings she grabbed her coffee at Ugly Mugs on Eastland before getting to work for the day, and when it was time to shop for organic groceries she headed out to the Turnip Truck.

“Never have I met such warm people, heard such good music, eaten so much fried chicken. I could go on and on,” Paltrow wrote of her time here. So far as we’re concerned, she’s welcome back anytime.

You can check out the full list of Gwyneth Paltrow‘s favorite spots in town, including establishments throughout the city and not just in our East Nashville backyard, at her GOOP newsletter.

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